The design of a Big Twin's Powertrain is non-unitized. That is, the gearbox is mounted independently from the engine, which means the two should work side by side to transfer power. That is where the primary drive, found in that massive metal case next to the biker's left boot, comes into play.
As the primary drive passes power from your engine to the back wheel, the alternating power that's provided from the engine's crankshaft is transformed into revolving energy through the moving major chain and sprockets that spin the transmission's input shaft. After the power recollects inside the transmission it's distributed through the gears and inside the second drive, which is the belt or chain drive that turns the bike's rear tire. This is usually a short explanation of a Harley Davidson powertrain, and, basically, each section performs part in running you and the bike along the highway.
Given that the powertrain consists of a set of shifting parts, you will have to make regular adjustments to them so they will work efficiently. Over time, dynamic parts, such as the main drive's sprockets and chain, require replacing. As things wear, they demand tuning to help keep correct tolerance. And it's the main driver's multi-row roller chain that needs to be checked out and adjusted at certain times. It's a fairly clear-cut process, too, one that you can work in your own garage area or shop.
Many of the action come about inside the inspection window that's reached by detaching the plate held on by four bolts. You will need a ruler to make the measurements and a set of essential tools to perform the adjustments. To adjust, loosen up the adjusting shoe's 9/16" bolt just a few spins and move the shoe upwards to tighten the chain or down to loosen.
A great time to examine and adjust the primary chain is when you have to draw and replace the main case oil. Davidson highly suggests its multi-purpose manufactured oil; however, if you already have a desired brand that has been produced for the primary drive, by all means, use it. Just ensure no matter what lube you select is designed for this purpose.
Once the inspection plate is off, you've got a good look at the chain's rollers and the adjuster shoe, so makes use of the time to visually inspect them for wear. Look at the chain's rollers to see if they're receiving total oiling, and look the adjuster shoe for breaks and such. Inspecting and fine-tuning the primary chain doesn't take long, and when you're done you'll have one thing of the checklist of things to do on your next drive. Remember to change the inspection plate gasket.
Things You'll Need:
Pipe sealant Pan for Draining T27 Torx T40 Torx 9/16" socket (deep) Ratchet Extended Ratchet Measuring Stick or Ruler
1. Basic routine service like adjusting the primary chain can be performed within your own garage or shop when changing the primary oil. Make sure the motorcycle is secured in an upright position when you start.
2. One thing to do is to drain the primary case of the old fluid. Once a drain pan is placed underneath the primary, have a T40 Torx to remove the drain plug that's positioned just beneath the derby cover.
3. Leave the used primary fluid to drain into the drain pan. While it empties, you'll be able to check the primary chain to see if it requires tuning.
4. Use a T27 Torx socket to get rid of a few bolts that keep the primary inspection plate in place. It's recommended that you change the inspection plate gasket just before you mount the plate.
5. With the inspection plate removed, you may check out the chain's rollers for signs of wear. Also, check them for signs of damage. With the transmission in neutral, check the rest of the chain by spinning the engine a few turns.
6. Measure the chain in several places and try to take two readings each time. One is with the chain's top run at slack. For the other, the ruler is raised against the top run to take off the slack and to measure once again. The main difference in the 2 on the chain's tightest point is definitely the chain's slack.
7. Utilize a 9/16" deep socket to adjust the chain's free play. With the chain cold, set the free play from " and 7/8". Right after you have retightened the nut, again, make measurements of the slack to ensure that you have set the proper amount.
8. While the inspection plate is exposed, check the adjuster shoe that's pushing against the chain's under run. You can see the adjustment nut in the upper right corner.
9. Not like the engine and transmission drain plugs, there's no O-ring on the primary case drain plug. To help seal it, apply some pipe sealant along the bottom edge of the bolt.
10. After cleaning all the lube from the primary cover, re-install the main case drain plug. When already set, carefully torque the bolt's from the inspection plate as well as the derby cover bolts to 108 in-lbs.
11. You may now refill the main case with fresh new fluid. Generally shops use lube from a common source instead of retailed cans.
12. Pump in 32 oz. of fluid. You need to add the right amount for your year and model bike.
As the primary drive passes power from your engine to the back wheel, the alternating power that's provided from the engine's crankshaft is transformed into revolving energy through the moving major chain and sprockets that spin the transmission's input shaft. After the power recollects inside the transmission it's distributed through the gears and inside the second drive, which is the belt or chain drive that turns the bike's rear tire. This is usually a short explanation of a Harley Davidson powertrain, and, basically, each section performs part in running you and the bike along the highway.
Given that the powertrain consists of a set of shifting parts, you will have to make regular adjustments to them so they will work efficiently. Over time, dynamic parts, such as the main drive's sprockets and chain, require replacing. As things wear, they demand tuning to help keep correct tolerance. And it's the main driver's multi-row roller chain that needs to be checked out and adjusted at certain times. It's a fairly clear-cut process, too, one that you can work in your own garage area or shop.
Many of the action come about inside the inspection window that's reached by detaching the plate held on by four bolts. You will need a ruler to make the measurements and a set of essential tools to perform the adjustments. To adjust, loosen up the adjusting shoe's 9/16" bolt just a few spins and move the shoe upwards to tighten the chain or down to loosen.
A great time to examine and adjust the primary chain is when you have to draw and replace the main case oil. Davidson highly suggests its multi-purpose manufactured oil; however, if you already have a desired brand that has been produced for the primary drive, by all means, use it. Just ensure no matter what lube you select is designed for this purpose.
Once the inspection plate is off, you've got a good look at the chain's rollers and the adjuster shoe, so makes use of the time to visually inspect them for wear. Look at the chain's rollers to see if they're receiving total oiling, and look the adjuster shoe for breaks and such. Inspecting and fine-tuning the primary chain doesn't take long, and when you're done you'll have one thing of the checklist of things to do on your next drive. Remember to change the inspection plate gasket.
Things You'll Need:
Pipe sealant Pan for Draining T27 Torx T40 Torx 9/16" socket (deep) Ratchet Extended Ratchet Measuring Stick or Ruler
1. Basic routine service like adjusting the primary chain can be performed within your own garage or shop when changing the primary oil. Make sure the motorcycle is secured in an upright position when you start.
2. One thing to do is to drain the primary case of the old fluid. Once a drain pan is placed underneath the primary, have a T40 Torx to remove the drain plug that's positioned just beneath the derby cover.
3. Leave the used primary fluid to drain into the drain pan. While it empties, you'll be able to check the primary chain to see if it requires tuning.
4. Use a T27 Torx socket to get rid of a few bolts that keep the primary inspection plate in place. It's recommended that you change the inspection plate gasket just before you mount the plate.
5. With the inspection plate removed, you may check out the chain's rollers for signs of wear. Also, check them for signs of damage. With the transmission in neutral, check the rest of the chain by spinning the engine a few turns.
6. Measure the chain in several places and try to take two readings each time. One is with the chain's top run at slack. For the other, the ruler is raised against the top run to take off the slack and to measure once again. The main difference in the 2 on the chain's tightest point is definitely the chain's slack.
7. Utilize a 9/16" deep socket to adjust the chain's free play. With the chain cold, set the free play from " and 7/8". Right after you have retightened the nut, again, make measurements of the slack to ensure that you have set the proper amount.
8. While the inspection plate is exposed, check the adjuster shoe that's pushing against the chain's under run. You can see the adjustment nut in the upper right corner.
9. Not like the engine and transmission drain plugs, there's no O-ring on the primary case drain plug. To help seal it, apply some pipe sealant along the bottom edge of the bolt.
10. After cleaning all the lube from the primary cover, re-install the main case drain plug. When already set, carefully torque the bolt's from the inspection plate as well as the derby cover bolts to 108 in-lbs.
11. You may now refill the main case with fresh new fluid. Generally shops use lube from a common source instead of retailed cans.
12. Pump in 32 oz. of fluid. You need to add the right amount for your year and model bike.
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